Once rejected by watch enthusiasts, now one of the most sought-after Patek Philippe’s models, the Aquanaut is a major source of buzz for pretty much everyone. Therefore, it seemed inevitable that Patek would address the dearth of options for its female collectors sooner rather than later. Of course, Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce 5267 masterfully embraces not only the hottest color in the watch industry but also appeals to the serious watch lover with different types of movements. Let’s take a look at the five new iterations of the Aquanaut Luce, revealed earlier today.
Green enters the mainstream
How wonderful is it to admire such intriguing new releases? The women’s Aquanaut Luce has been with us since 2004. Its debut came many years before green cracked the mainstream. However, the on-trend shade looks perfectly at home on the piece pictured above. The new collection boasts the classic silhouette, but these new colors (and some diamonds) steal the show.
From a design standpoint, the stainless steel variations ref. 5267/200A push the mainstream look to the max. The 38.8mm, rounded octagonal case turns this Patek’s world into a flash of diamonds while the typography on the dial, luminous coating on the hands, and numerals have a sportier appearance. Leading the collection is a characteristic of this model dial that builds on the Aquanaut pattern. The main shades in focus for this collection are olive green, matte white, and — the most classic option — black. All Patek watches ref. 5267/200A features the quartz movement Caliber E 23‑250 S C and are water-resistant up to 120m.
The Travel Time is (anything but) predictable
Like so many of you, I have been amazed by recent releases. Many brands reinforce the aesthetic of a women’s timepiece with a proper movement. Therefore the Patek’s Aquanaut Luce Travel Time surprised me a little. The Aquanaut Travel Time — which I happen to be obsessed with — is powered by the beautiful-looking caliber 324 S C FUS. What about the women’s iteration? Oozing practicality, inside this rose gold watch with matte white dial and 48 diamonds we can find the E 23-250 S FUS 24H quartz caliber with Travel Time function. For some, it diminishes the joy of having a dual time zone watch. For others, it is a great chance to rock a standout piece with a more convenient movement. The choice is yours.
The Patek Philippe automatic Aquanaut Luce ref. 5268/200R-001
For those who want to embrace style with a self-winding mechanical movement, Patek might have something for you. The automatic Aquanaut Luce ref. 5268/200R-001, with the Caliber 26‑330 S C and a 120 meters water-resistant case is a solid everyday option. With its allure and rounded octagonal silhouette, the watch offers a 45-hour power reserve and generated by an exquisitely finished rotor. However, from a purely subjective perspective, I couldn’t help but wonder why ref. 5268/200R comes only with a rose gold case…
What is the best release you saw this season?
Certainly, Patek is in full swing. Back in February, we welcomed three new Twenty~4 Watches with automatic movements. Today, we see another bold Patek timepiece revisited with a 2021 twist. There’s certainly something for everyone, whether that be alloys used in a variety of movements included and no compromise on the case size.
Patek Philippe isn’t finished releasing its new watches for 2021 just yet. While Watches & Wonders was all about the Nautilus, this month, it turns its attention to the beloved Aquanaut collection.
This year marks the 15th anniversary of the ladies’ Aquanaut Luce collection. The Aquanaut Luce features a diamond-set bezel and comes in both quartz and automatic models, in steel and 18K rose gold, respectively. Today, Patek Philippe introduces updates to the classic timepieces and the collection’s first dual time zone watch.
The new Aquanaut Luce Travel Time is the first complication in the Aquanaut Luce collection. This dual time zone watch uses Patek Philippe’s signature skeletonized hand to display the hours of a second time zone, while the solid hour hand shows local time. When at home, the skeletonized hand disappears beneath the solid hour hand, an elegant solution. At 6 o’clock, there’s a discreet day/night indication for home time. The time on the quartz movement is easily adjusted through the crown.
Both time-only Aquanaut Luce watches have been increased to 38.8mm from 35.6mm, but keep the classic stylings of the originals, including the signature dial motif and applied gold numerals. The quartz 5267/200A comes in three colors — black, white, and green — with coordinating dial and straps, while the automatic 5268/200R, debuts a new 18K rose gold case and white dial color combination. It also features a new movement, caliber 26-330 S C, which was released in 2019. This impressive movement has two patents.
The 42.2mm Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968G also gets a new look this year. This impressive chronograph was first released in 2018, but now, Patek Philippe releases the first 18K white gold versions. They have blue or green dials with matching straps. They have the CH 28-520 C caliber, a flyback chronograph with a 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock.