In watchmaking, lightweight and highly resistant ceramic has become a favourite material, embraced by most brands, such as Bell & Ross. Renowned for its extensive use in the aerospace industry, ceramic is a highly technical substance that aligns seamlessly with Bell & Ross’s design philosophy rooted in aviation. Inspired by aircraft instrument panels, the brand naturally gravitates towards offering timepieces crafted in ceramic, with a particular affinity for the distinctive aesthetic of black ceramic.
While black ceramic has been a staple in various B&R collections, it had yet to take centre stage in the BR 05 series, launched in 2019 and aimed to provide Bell & Ross enthusiasts with timepieces in the popular steel integrated bracelet sports category while retaining the signature design language of the iconic BR 03 collection. Now, we gladly introduce a trio of new and captivating models: BR 05 Black Ceramic, BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic, and BR 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic, just unveiled at the Watches and Wonders 2024 event in Geneva.
As we anticipate the addition of models with various functions to the BR05 Black Ceramic line in the future, the models unveiled today consist of a time-and-date reference and two skeleton three-handers, sharing many common features.
The square case of the new BR05 Black Ceramic series measures 41mm in width and 11.2mm in thickness, slightly larger – by 1mm than other similar BR05 references in the collection. Bruno Belamich, the Creative Director and co-founder of Bell & Ross, elaborated on this decision. The black colour tends to visually shrink objects, prompting an adjustment in the case dimensions to maintain the pieces’ powerful presence.
The BR 05 Black Ceramic and BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic boast a combination of satin-finishing and polishing. At the same time, the BR 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic flaunts a matte surface achieved through sandblasted ceramic, offering a sportier and crisper appearance. All models feature a water resistance of 100m, a screw-down crown flanked by guards for protection, and sapphire crystal on both the front (with AR coating) and back.
The dials mark the key distinctions among the three new references. The BR 05 Black Ceramic, featuring a time and date display, boasts a glossy black sunburst dial. Rhodium-plated skeletonized hands and baton indices, filled with white Super-LumiNova, emit a green glow in the dark. White-printed numerals accompany indices at 12, 6, and 9 o’clock, while the aperture at 3 o’clock showcases a white date on a black-coloured disc. The brand’s logo and indications of automatic movement and Swiss-made origin complete the dial-side information.
In contrast, the BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic presents a transparent, black-tinted dial adorned with applied baton indices filled with Super-LumiNova. The 12 o’clock position features a double index. The hands maintain uniformity across the series – skeletonized and luminescent for hours and minutes and rhodium-plated for seconds. Through the dial, rhodium-plated movement components discreetly peep out, preserving Bell & Ross’s favoured stealth-like aesthetic.
Lastly, the BR 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic’s semi-transparent dial is crafted from black smoked sapphire crystal. The applied indices are treated with C5 Super-LumiNova, appearing green in daylight and low-light conditions. The rhodium-plated skeletonized hands receive a touch of the same high-shine green luminescent material, ensuring visibility in all lighting environments.
For timekeeping, the time-and-date BR05 Black Ceramic utilizes the automatic calibre BR-CAL.321 (based on the Sellita SW-300) with approximately 54 hours of power reserve. The oscillating weight, adorned with decorative elements, is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. On the other hand, the two Skeleton references employ the calibre BR-CAL.322, boasting similar characteristics, including 54-hour autonomy and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations/hour.
The BR 05 Black Ceramic and BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic are permanent additions to the collection. They come with an integrated matching bracelet and a black rubber strap, each secured with a steel folding buckle. In contrast, the BR 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic is a limited edition of 500 pieces and exclusively features an integrated black matte ceramic bracelet. Pricing details are yet to be confirmed and will be updated during the W&W fair (expect starting prices of about 6K euros).